Neckar River Bicycle Tour
This page describes the Neckar River Bike Path. The Neckar River flows
from the Black Forest to the Central Rhine near Mannheim. The river flows through
many historic communities like Tübingen and Heidelberg, to name only two. There
are many reminders of the Middle Ages as you bike along this picturesque cycle route.
2001. This is a 6-day 232 or 373-kilometer bike tour from the source of the Neckar
to the Bahnhof in Mannheim. Sure, we could ride this tour in 5 days. But,
that last day will be a long one, almost 60 miles. Anyway, we want to spend the
night in beautiful Heidelberg. We lose about 1,400 feet in altitude during the ride
but most of that is the on the first day, leaving the rest of the trip mostly flat.
Not to say there are not a sprinkling of hills over the entire trip. Only the last
day (15 miles) had no hills at all. The path is in great shape; it is almost entirely
paved but there are some short distances of gravel path.
On this trip, Pete and Kelly Burleigh, my brother and sister-in-law from Great
Falls, Montana, accompany us. This is their first trip to Germany and they are a
little tentative about the whole thing. Riding bikes borrowed from family, they
bravely face the wild frontier where only a few hundred million Germans have gone
before – so to speak. Actually, it is great fun to have them along. Neither Pete
nor Kelly speaks a word of German so I get away with impressing them in my halting
German. What do they know anyway? Perhaps, people from Montana are easier than most
to fool. Or, perhaps, they are not as fooled as I think.
The bicycle path signs have a white
background with a green, left-facing, bicycle graphic. The front wheel has red and
white spokes. The words, where there are words, say Neckartal-Radweg. I
am told that the new path sign graphic is the blue sign on the left. As usual, the
older path signs will remain for several years – probably including a new logo sticker.
As you ride, be careful not to confuse the intersecting and sometimes contemporary
path signs of other routes.
We found adequate bed and breakfast
establishments as well as hotels along the way. The guides to accommodations in
both the bikeline guidebook as well as the BVA map were good. They are
never 100% because things change between gathering the information and the time
we use the guidebooks, but nevertheless, they are useful. Only once were we unable
to find a room in the village we picked to stop in. But, like always, there was
another village just down the road. As a choice, we like Zimmer (advertised
as Zimmer Frei) but there are also Gasthäuser (Guest Houses),
Pensionen (pensions or bed and breakfasts), Jugendherbergen (Youth
Hostels), and hotels. For a complete discussion of the different types of accommodations
and tips on reservations, see our page on
We passed a couple different Roman ruins.
They are almost as “old hat” as castles (of which there are plenty) but we frequently
stop anyway because they are usually free and its fun to imagine life 2,000 years
ago. There are several important historical cities to stop in. The most famous to
Americans is Heidelberg but the ancient university of Tübingen is another. We did
not bother with Stuttgart because it is so big – we just wanted to get on down the
road. However, the guidebooks have a lot to say about Stuttgart as well.
detailed map and guidebook we use is the bikeline Neckar-Radweg, (Von der Quelle
nach Mannheim), Radtourenbuch und Karte, and scale 1:50,000, published by
Verlag Roland Esterbauer, GmbH. We also
use the BVA Radwanderkarte Neckartal-Radweg, scale 1:75,000, published
by BVA Bielefelder Verlagsanstalt GmbH & Co. KG.
Back to the top
Day 1: Schwenningen to Glatt
You should start the tour at the
Schwenningen Bahnhof, a few meters from the Neckarquelle. Actually, we
spent the night before our start at Hotel-Gasthof Linde, Strassburger Strasse 2,
78052 VS-Marbach. Telephone 07721-88530 and fax 07721-885315, 47 Euro per double
room. On the way to Schwenningen from Marbach, we are lost already and end up in
Dürrheim, the next community to the south. We then rode the main roads back into
Schwenningen, picked up the trail and we decided to make the actual mileage start
of the ride at the Schwenningen Bahnhof. This is not an illogical starting
place since it is next to the park in which the Neckarquelle (spring of
the Neckar) spews forth its river – tiny at first, but soon to be a major waterway.
Today’s ride is 38.6 miles (62.0 km) from the spring in Schwenningen to the quiet
village of Glatt. Today is a little hilly – especially the hill at mile 14 (22.5
km) where the uphill is about 180 feet in gain. The downhill following is almost
400 feet and great fun too. The path follows the river closely but we do manage
to ride over several small hills, the highest of which is 50 feet.
our hotel for the night is actually in Marbach we zero our cyclometer at the
Bahnhof in Schwenningen. The spring, one of the sources of the Neckar is in
the public park next to the Bahnhof. I would presume that most people will
find accommodations in either Villingen or in Schwenningen. (We chose a place in
Marbach because we liked the way the hostess sounded on the phone and the first
few places we called in Villingen/Schwenningen were full for the night.)
We are next to a small airport.
There is a museum of flight at the small airport we are riding along. It is called
the Internationales Luftfahrtmuseum and I can see at least one Soviet MIG
aircraft and several other military and civilian aircraft but we do not stop.
Deißlingen we found a life-sized sculpture of a bull in a chute and some farmers
trying to convince the bull to do something he does not want to do. Although we
try to help as the photograph to the left shows, we are unsuccessful. The sign explaining
the sculpture tells us the bull actually died during the contest. Having grown up
on a farm and been guilty of my share of mistakes, I am sure that the farmhands
involved with the event depicted would not have wanted their mistake to be immortalized
as this sculpture does. In Deißlingen, we join a busy road and follow it for almost
After a 70-foot climb up
and down a hill we ride into Bühlingen.
Rottweil, we ride past a partially restored Roman bath. It is interesting in that
it depicts what must have been a luxurious facility with both hot and cold running
water and several different large baths, the size of small swimming pools.
After gradually climbing
a hill of well over 100 feet, we are rewarded by a wonderful drop to this spot where
we cross the tracks. One guidebook shows the location of the ruin near here but
we do not notice it and keep going.\
Turn off the cycle path
and follow the signs toward Glatt. We have been riding a mixed bag of mostly small
rolling hills with occasional short stretches of gravel bike path. The village of
Glatt takes its name from the small river that flows through it. We find a nice,
quiet accommodation owned by a couple who work in the Schloss Hof café in town.
Glatt is 2 km off the trail but it is nice.
Day 2: Glatt to Neckartenzlingen
Another beautiful day in this drop-dead
gorgeous part of Germany. The path is almost entirely paved today but there are
a few hills. For instance, we have to climb into Horb and then there is another
40-foot hill just beyond Horb. Fortunately, we bypass one of the hills just outside
of Tübingen. According to the guidebook, the path we take around that hill is an
alternate route but we are following signs and the signs indicate it was the only
route. Anyway, we feel it is the best way because we are over fifty with bad knees,
We reset our cyclometer to zero
as we rejoin the Neckar bike path.
Built in the Middle Ages,
the community of Horb is picturesque and historic.
View of Weitenburg on top
of the hill. From Sulzau to Obernau, about 4 miles, you share a road with automobiles.
Typical of European roads, there is no shoulder, there also is not much traffic
and everyone gives us plenty of room.
Enter Rottenburg am Neckar.
This town was here when the Romans occupied this part of Gaul. That means the community
is at least 2,000 years old. As a Roman community, they enjoyed a 7-kilometer long
water pipe, probably made from logs.
We make a big mistake by
riding through Tübingen, an ancient university town and center of learning since
the Middle Ages. We enjoy the park along the Neckar – or the Neckar Front, as they
call it here. Perhaps the beauty of this park-like riverfront makes us fail to realize
that the town itself also offers much in the way of history, culture, and adventure.
Someday, we will have to come back and check it out.
Just past Tübingen is the
community of Kirchentellinsfurt (that is a mouthful). Both guidebooks show a steep
hill here but glory of glories, we find they have changed the bike route and we
cross the river to the left bank instead of climbing the hill in the town.
We stop for the night in
Neckartenzlingen at Hotel zum Flösser on Stuttgarterstrasse 31 (07127-21708 or 92611)
it is on the main Bundestrasse through the valley so there is some road noise but
the rooms are nice and the food is great. The cost was €60 per room for two people.
Back to the top
Day 3: Neckartenzlingen to Marbach
The path is all paved except three
short sections of tightly packed gravel. The good news is there are no major hills
today. About the only hill we climbed was into Marbach, the birthplace of the poet
Schiller, at the end of the day. We spent the night in this picturesque walled city.
The only downside today is the heavy traffic through Stuttgart. On the
Tim's Tips page in this website, I suggest taking public
transportation through big cities but when we get there, we find it is easier to
ride than to figure out the bus system. Besides, there are four of us and that is
just too many bikes for one bus.
Leaving the hotel in Neckartenzlingen,
we set our cyclometers to zero as we reconnect with the bike path. Fat lot of good
that does us because we think we are following the bike path but forget that the
bike path has changed since the guidebook was printed. The real path is on the left
bank; we are on the right bank. Not only are there no bike path signs here, but
also we find a couple small hills to boot. Darn! Assuming the mileage is about the
same on either side, we continue following the old path into Nürtingen. We go shopping
for a new guidebook in Nürtingen.
We enter Nürtingen and this
is about where the new path joins the old path. So, as always when we get off the
mapped path, a little patience and some luck and we find our way back. Seldom have
we backtracked to find the path we are supposed to have taken. However, we will
backtrack if we face a steep hill.
We cross the Stadtbrücke
in Nürtingen and pick up the trail again on the left bank of the Neckar.
We cross the river on an
old bridge built in the 15th Century. However, once over, a man in Lederhosen
suggests to us that there are paths (both gravel) on either side but the one on
the left is slightly better. We ignore him and continue only to eventually realize
that he is correct and we would have been better off on the other side (the left
We have steps to negotiate.
We are in Obersslingen where the path dips under the railroad to reappear on the
river. In a couple of miles, we will ride next to the Mercedes Benz factory outside
of Stuttgart. Follow the signs through Stuttgart. It a little confusing, noisy and
smelly because of the exhaust fumes. There is no easy way to ride through cities.
We leave the path here and
ride up into the center of Marbach in search of a room. We find one over the butcher
shop in an old hotel. This place was probably built in the Middle Ages although
it is nice, clean, and modern. Because the city center is a pedestrian zone, after
the people go home, this will be a very quiet spot. The owner sells us some beer
from his private stock and Pete and I walk the town looking for Hors d’ouvres and
wine to consume before we seek a restaurant for dinner. Marbach is the birthplace
of Schiller, one of the world’s great poets and perhaps Germany’s most beloved literary
Back to the top
Day 4: Marbach to Haßmersheim
There are two major hills today,
the first one at mile 7 is the largest and the drop is the most fun too. The second
at mile 20 is only a 110-foot hill. We find more gravel today but it is in good
condition – assuming dry weather.
The forecast for today is warm.
The Neckar valley is beautiful in the morning sun. There is a slight morning mist
in the air giving a surreal look to the sunlit vineyards covering the hills that
cascade into the distance, each slightly less clear than the one before. I start
my cyclometer on the bike path on the left bank just past the footbridge into Marbach
and just before crossing under the railroad tracks.
This is the bottom of a monster
hill (340 feet in elevation). It just goes and goes. Just when you think you are
at the top, it goes up some more. Fortunately, from about mile 8.0, the slope is
less steep and easily ridden. At the top, we find fields of sunflowers that are
huge and just turning from flower to seed head. Bikers before us had traced smiley
faces into the blooms making the field seem like an army of green soldiers smiling
their approval for the hard work we have just completed by climbing the hill.
We are inside Besigheim
after a GREAT drop off the sunflower plateau. Part of the drop was a little winding
and we had to hold back, the bottom part allowed a clear field of vision ahead and
we could coast as fast as gravity wanted to take us. Great fun!
Leaving Luffen, we climb
another hill (120 feet) into the vineyards. The view from the top is nearly a 360°
of the villages, the river valley, and the surrounding hills. The purple grapes
on the vines taste a little bitter. You are not supposed to pick them but Pete did
not know that and tried one. I told him I would not put that part into the travelogue.
I lied – it is what you do to get even with your big brother.
We stop in Gundelsheim hoping
to find overnight accommodations. However, it is Saturday and all the places in
the guidebook are either full or do not answer their phone. I suspect those who
do not answer are on vacation. Even people who rent out rooms take vacations now
and then. We continue down the path but we are hot, sweaty and tired from climbing
those last two huge hills in the noonday heat.
Riding along the trail,
Maxa spots a sign advertising Gasthof Adler in Haßmersheim. We dip down
into the town and shortly we find a Gasthaus. It is brand new. The rooms
cost €60 each but they are large and sparkling clean. We arrive during one of the
community’s festivals and so after we shower off the trail dust, we walk down to
the river and walk through the tents and booths, listening to the music and watching
people – just like natives. This is a treat for Pete and Kelly because while they
are used to the county fairs in Montana, they have not experienced a street fest
in Germany until today. As it turns out, we are fortunate. The town we thought we
had to ride to in order to get a room for the night is actually over an hour away
by bike. We are tired and our own sense of humor is starting to wane. Today was
a little too hot for all the hill climbing we did.
Day 5: Haßmersheim to Heidelberg
This just has to be the prettiest
section of the Neckar. I know I have said that before but this time, I mean it.
Really. The river winds between steep hills, some forested some covered with vineyards.
We are enjoying warm sunshine. However, later in the afternoon, it will become hot
and we will actually wish for a cloud or two to cool us off. The path is not too
well signed today but it is hard to get too lost because of how narrow the valley
is. There are three hills today but they are easy compared to what you have already
The photograph shows three
of us hauling our bikes up 25 stairs to cross a dam over the river. We could avoid
these stairs by taking the alternate path shown on the bikeline guidebook. However,
on the alternate path there are both hills and traffic. So, we choose the steps.
We cross the river on the
ferry here at Zwingenberg. On the ferry, we talk to a guy with no panniers, tight
spandex, and a well-worn racing bike. As we depart, he fiddles with his bike on
the shore while we ride off. 10 minutes later he passes us on the trail. I stepped
off my bike to see if maybe I had a flat tire or my brakes were stuck on. He really
blows our doors off" - if, that is, if bikes had doors. He said he would be
covering over 200 km today.
Enter Ersheim, across the
river from Hirschhorn. The photographs here are of the Ersheimer Kapelle, built
in 1345 it is the oldest church (chapel) in the Neckar Valley, and Burg Hirschhorn,
one of the many castles along the way.
We choose not to cross the
dam into Neckarsteinach because this is the city with four castles overlooking the
river. The view of the castles is better from the left bank so we follow the alternate
path and take the pictures shown here.
We rejoin the main bike path
by crossing a footbridge slung underneath a railroad bridge in Neckargemünd. Once
on the other side, we follow a bike path next to the main road into Heidelberg.
We cross the Old Bridge
(Alten Brücke) into Heidelberg, an old university city. The famous Heidelberg
Castle is on our left and the Main Gate of the old town is ahead of us. We stop
for the night here and walk through the Old Town to enjoy one of Germany’s most
picturesque cities. After checking with the tourist information office, we find
a reasonably priced hotel just outside of the Old Town. We stay at Pension Elite,
15 Bunsenstr. 06221-25734. I have to say, they have a great breakfast.
Back to the top
Day 6: Heidelberg to Mannheim
Today is flat and paved. It is
only 15 miles (26 km) to the Mannheim Bahnhof. Unfortunately, once you cross the
bridge into Edingen-Neckarhausen, the signs are few and far between. Additionally,
when you do find them in Mannheim, they have a good chance of taking you on a circuitous
route around Mannheim instead of directly to the Bahnhof. See the travelogue for
We pick up the trail on the right
bank of the river at the bridge (Ernst-Walz Brücke) about a mile downriver
from the famous Alten Brücke.
We ride past several old graves
being excavated by archeological students. They are shallow, maybe 3 feet deep and
they have been unearthed by construction equipment involved in burying an electrical
cable. The students tell us that they are between 600 to 800 years old. That means
these people lived in the Middle Ages before Columbus discovered America. (Why do
we say that Columbus discovered America when we do not say that Pocahontas discovered
Europe? Besides, Columbus was not even the first European to set foot on the North
Just past the ferry, cross
the river on the railroad bridge. Once on the other side, there are few signs so
try to follow the map.
This is the approximate
mileage of the Friedrich-Ebert-Brücke, which is the east end of the Luisenpark you
have been riding through. Turn right on Renz Strasse and ride south past the
Wasserturm (water tower). You will be on a bike lane on the left side of this
busy street that turns a little bit to the right. Past the Wasserturm,
take Tattersakkstrasse south to Bismarckplatz then jog right and left to Hauptbahnhof.
We did not ride to the confluence of the Neckar and the Rhine. And we did not take
the path recommended above. Instead, we turned left a block before the Friedrich-Ebert-Brücke
and followed the bike path signs through Luisen Park. When we finally get to the
Bahnhof, there is a train departing for our home base in Kassel in 6 minutes so
we jump on it instead of waiting 2 hours for the next logical connection. Not to
say anything bad about Mannheim, but this is just the first time we get lost following
signs that I will swear have been altered by little kids who derive devilish joy
from confusing English speaking tourist. The second time will be a year from now
when we follow the Rhine through Mannheim. We would probably be there today if it
were not for a friendly bicycle commuter who saw us studying our maps with confused
looks and finding out we wanted to get to the Bahnhof, suggests that we follow him
because he is riding right past it.
This is the approximate
mileage of the Bahnhof if you follow the recommended path described first above.
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