First of all, visitors to Germany need to know that many, if not almost all, stores are closed on Sundays and major holidays. Unlike the US where you can shop 'til you drop 24/7, in Germany, they beleive in letting the employees have a family life; so they close Sundays. Why is this important? Consider you are on a bicycle and it is Saturday (or any day before a major holiday). You may want to buy your groceries or bike parts today, not tomorrow. Maxa and I enjoy a bottle of wine in the evenings after we come back from the restaurant. If we want wine on Sunday evening, we buy it Saturday and carry it all day.

Niceties

It isn't that Germans are formal, but they are a little more paced in their interactions with others that we are used to here in the colonies, as the Brits still call us. For example, when they come into a room full of people, they usually make the rounds, saying hello to each person individually and shaking hands, or perhaps giving a good friend of the opposite sex a cheek to peck. It's unthinkable not to acknowledge everyone individually unless the number of people is daunting.

Even when walking into a restaurant or a kneipe (pub or tavern), one frequently has a greeting for the people already there, especially if there are only a few other people. A safe greeting is "Guten Tag," - unless you are there in the morning or very late at night and your mother doesn't want you there then. Similarly, when you leave say, "good bye" or in German, "Auf Wiedersehen" (the "Auf" is de-emphasized and sometimes omitted.)

As an aside, tipping is encouraged. Especially by the people receiving the tips. One of the readers e-mailed me to request this thought be added to the web site. Tipping rules in Germany are identical to those in the USA. Hotel workers, taxi drivers, etc. all regard tips as a portion off their fair compensation. The only exception is restaurants where a 15% tip is usually included in the bill. Even so, if you liked the service, round up to the nearest Euro (on very large checks to the nearest 5 Euros). Conversely, if you really didn't like the service collect your change (just like in the States).

Coffee and Pastry:

I mentioned coffee above. The Germans raised coffee drinking to a hedonistic art form a century before America invented Starbucks. They have many and varied selections of coffee and they, like the Italians, have long had small shops where one can purchase a small cup of strong coffee, toss it down and continue on their jittery way. They usually like their coffee strong – not always espresso strength but much stronger than the Folgers in the stereotypical diner of Middle America. The British have their teatime. The Germans have “Kaffee.” Mid afternoons on lazy days, you will find Germans gathering for Kaffee. You cannot drink coffee without something to be washed down. They probably invented “Kuchen” (delicious pastry) just to go with the coffee. Right after that, they invented whipped cream to go with the Kuchen. Kaffee is as much a social experience as it is fattening. I highly recommend it. But then, I have high cholesterol and a spare tire so you can make your own decision.

In restaurants, if you order coffee, they will ask if you want a “Kännchen.” A Kännchen is simply a small pot that holds about two cups. In lieu of Kännchen sometimes you'll find a Kaffee Pot which is a large cup or mug. Since there are no free refills, this is probably the way to go. If you order Kuchen too, they may ask you to choose one from their display.

Beer:

No discussion of Germany would be complete without touching on the drink for which this country is famous. Beer consumption per capita has dropped slightly in recent years. This is perhaps a function of more disposable income in the working class ranks and they are buying wine instead of beer. Or, it could be that the 2 million or so immigrants who have come to live there are not buying the local brews like the natives. But nothing has dampened the country’s thirst. Germans consume almost 278 pints of beer per man woman and child. When you take into consideration that babies drink milk and the very old drink the German equivalent to Geritol. That leaves the German Beer drinker (by my estimate, 60% of the population) to drink 35 gallons of beer a year. They seem to be up to the task. We try to help where we can – it’s the least we can do as guests in Germany.

The quality of the beer is great. This is less due to the laws governing the production of beer in Germany (Reinheitsgebot ) as the pride and skill of the brew masters. The taste of the different beers varies widely and no German of drinking age is without his or her preferences. Most can write dissertations comparing and contrasting the different regional offerings. Wherever you are, try the local brew. Try the two most common styles; pils and export. Then try wheat beer made with yeast (hefeweizen or sometimes just weizen), hell, and alt. There are many others including smoked beer (geräuchertes Bier), sweet beer (berliner weisse and Bock) and many more. In all there are 30 different types of beer to choose from. Watch out though, in Germany, the beer can be slightly more alcoholic than in the USA.

Note: Don't do it now because there is a lot more to read here, but later, for a well written and thorough website about European beer, try Ron Pattinson's dissertation on the subject at http://www.europeanbeerguide.net/index.htm.

Perhaps you would like refreshment without the headache? Try a Radler or an Alsterwasser. These are beers mixed 50/50 with lemonade or 7-up. You could order a Diesel too. If you do so in a restaurant, you'll get 50% beer and 50% coke. If you do so in a gas station, ... well, it just won't taste the same, you know.

By the way, the statistics were provided by Holsten-Brauerei AG, and are for 1999. Perhaps consumption is up this year even more. Their web site is http://www.bier.de -- what else?

Wine:

Don’t leave Germany without sampling the wine either. The Romans first introduced the tribal Germans to the art of making and drinking wine during their occupation shortly after the time of Christ. Thereafter, grape cultivation flourished and Germans have been proud of their wine ever since.

Most of the German production is white wine varieties although some red wine is produced in many regions. Like with French wine, the variety of the grape is less important than the vintner, the region, and the vintage. In Germany, you can tell what region a wine comes from by the shape of the bottle. The wine palette in Germany is discerning to the balance of sugar and alcohol. Many, but not all, of the wines are sweet and the sweetest are frequently the best. Look for words like Kabinett, Spätlese (late harvest) or Trockenbeerenauslese (dry berry harvest) for higher quality libation. Eiswein is a special type of wine made from grapes that are harvested frozen on the vine. Of course, the locals drink the less expensive varieties of Tafelwein or Landwein for everyday meals. Spending a lot of money on fancy wines is for tourists.

Sort of a final thought: In Germany, they have a saying. Wein nach Bier, das probier. Bier nach Wein, das lass sein! It is something most teenagers learn on prom night and it translates to: Wine after beer, you can try. But beer after wine, leave it be (don't try it). And, another thing they say in Germany is: Drink and drive, lose your license. Their tolerance level of blood alcohol is 1/4 of that in the USA. Don't even drink one beer and hope to drive. If you are nailed, you're toast. No kidding. You read it here.

For way too much about wine, go to Wine.

Ice Cream:

Somewhere between food and drink we squeeze ice cream. I say squeeze it here because if you eat it as soon as it is served, it is solid, but wait a while and you can drink it. I believe ice cream is a food (actually a vegetable) because my three older brothers told me so. However, my sainted mother always told me it was a dessert. No wonder I grew up confused. I like my brother's logic though; if you want to eat dinner, why not make a dinner of vegetables and chocolate sauce. When Mom comes home, she will be proud of you when you tell her you only had vegetables for dinner. but I digress.

Ice Cream in German is Eis. The Germans didn't invent ice cream, in fact they frequently call their ice cream stores "Italienische Eis Spezialitäten" or "Italian ice cream specialties," giving proper credit to the country that has done the most to improve the taste of ice cream since it was invented (in France I have heard). Italian ice cream is smooth but a bit more toward a creamy sorbet than the super-sweet, super-creamy ice cream Baskin & Roberts or Ben & Jerry's sells in the USA.

What the Germans bring to ice cream is the art of making it look either like something decadent or something that doesn't look like ice cream. They take the concept of a sundae and turn it into a work of art, sculpted before your eyes. There will be mountains built of tiny balls of ice cream topped by towering peaks of wavy whipped cream, drizzled with different colored sauces served in fancy glass containers (dishes or bowls just don't describe these vessels). Your selections frequently contain a liquor or two. The coup de grâce is chunks of fruit, tiny paper umbrellas, or tiny pompoms to add the extra festive touch.

Even more interesting, you may see plain dishes like spaghetti & meatballs or bacon, eggs & pancakes on the menu. When they are served they look the world like you are about to eat a main course of something Denny's sells. But nooo, you'll discover that the dishes are made of ice cream and fruit sauces. Such fun! But, you do pay for it. A visit to the Eis Laden, or ice cream store, might cost you $15 to $20 dollars for ice cream and coffee drinks for two. You can get by for less and still enjoy the flavors by ordering plain ice cream in a dish. But you'll be missing half of the fun and I am told that, "there are no pockets in the shroud" any way.

Food:

Only after a discussion of beer, can you think about what to eat. We home base in Kassel which is in Central Germany, specifically North Hesse. There are a few North Hessian specialties that are note worthy but being in the center of the country, regional specialties from all over Germany abound here. There are a two North Hessian specialties that will probably taste good to most American palettes and a few that don't taste good even to most people born and raised in North Hesse. Aale Wurst and Grüne Sosse are the two that I can easily recommend. Aale Wurst is a smoked aged salami type of wurst that is lightly spiced with a mixture of herbs including garlic. Grüne Sosse is a sauce made with several common garden greens, hard boiled egg, and sour cream. It is used as a sauce for boiled potatoes and on some fish.

Now if you have developed a palette at least a standard deviation or two from the norm as I have, you should try Weckewerk. Weckewerk is mostly meat but also contains some of the soft tissue left over from the butchering process after everything imaginable has been salvaged. I mean everything from the internal organs to the tail (i.e., ox tail soup). This pile of, uh, protein is chopped fine, mixed with spices, herbs and garlic and then fried. Then much of the liquid fat is drained off and the mixture, a light grayish brown in color, is flopped on a plate of mashed potatoes. The potatoes are important, they soak up the remaining grease - and that is no small task. Another dish I have not tried, since my cholesterol went off the chart, is Wellfleisch. Wellfleisch is made from the meat and soft tissue in a pig head. I asked if there was brain in the Wellfleisch and the answer was, no. Perhaps, the brain is more valuable than the parts used for this dish. Lastly, another dish I could do without but the locals seem to enjoy is Eisbein. Eisbein is the lower part of ham hocks boiled in its skin with herbs and spices. The same part of the swine baked without the skin is call Schweine Haxen; served with Sauerkraut it's a tasty dish but not quite so fatty.

Not a regional specialty but a national food, like our America's hamburgers and hotdogs are the fried Wursts. There are several types including Brat, Curry, Wiener, and Weiss. These are served all over the country and although each butcher uses a slightly different recipe, they are fairly standard. Bratwürste (Bratwursts) are made from a combination of beef and pork and are served in short chunky style and long and narrow style. The long ones (12 inches or more) are commonly found at street kiosks and are served with a small roll called a Brötchen (or a Semmel in Bavaria) and a spicy mustard called Senf. Each time we come, I do not feel as if I have truly landed until I get my "fix" of a Bratwurst from a street vendor - served too hot to eat and with a worm of spicy mustard all along the top of the Wurst. To die for, really.

Don't leave without trying Rouladen mit Rotkohl; a thin slice of beef wrapped around a pickle. The sauce is a thick dark gravy and the food will melt in your mouth. If you are in the Swabisch area like Baden-Württemberg, try Maultaschen and Spätzle.

My all time favorite German custom is the evening meal of different cold cuts, cheeses, and a variety of other delicacies called Kaltteller or "cold plate" in English. These are eaten by putting one type item on a slice of bread, or a part of a slice, and then cut into bite sized pieces with a knife and fork (remember, the fork in the left hand, knife in the right). Don't make a sandwich, it's considered very gauche.

Bread:

While on the subject of consumables, I have to tell you about the breads. I feel sorry for those of you who cannot or have not developed a taste for bread. Being an American and over 50 ("OFWBK Club"), I was raised on Wonder Bread. (“What a waste of flour and water.” he spit disdainfully.) Once I discovered good crusty peasant bread, I have never looked back. Germans, like the French and Italians, worship good bread. There are bakeries where you can select from nearly 100 different types and shapes of bread. Having tried many of them, I have yet to meet a loaf I could not like (although, I eat pumpernickel only with ripe cheese or strong fish). The staple in the German diet is a medium rye bread called Graubrot or gray bread. Another staple in the diet of Central Germany is Brötchen, literally “little bread.” Fresh Brötchen is available in every village of more than 10 homes. With a little butter, some jam, or a slice of Wurst, it is the breakfast of choice for millions of Germans. Brötchen can easily be into a sandwich and carried on your bike for a snack or lunch (Mittagspause). One more thought about bread. In Germany, I understand one can even buy liquid bread. They call it Flüssigbrot - see Beer above (get it?).

More about biking in Germany can be found in these pages:

• German Laws • German Culture • German Food & Drink • Miscellaneous •

Revised: March 30, 2008