rode on the Island of Rügen a year after we completed the second half of
the Ostsee Radweg. This happened because our partners on the first
half, Guntram and Ulla, wanted to join us on the second half but it was
inconvenient. So, we agreed that we would come back the next year. We planned
to stay in one place and make day-trips from there, coming back to our accommodation
every evening. We quartered ourselves in Lancken, which is on the peninsula
of Wittow in the far north of the island. The locals call Wittow an island
but since it is connected to the rest of the Rügen by a narrow strip of
land (isthmus), I call it a peninsula. One thing for sure, Wittow is windy.
Yes, Virginia, there are path
signs – but only occasionally. The signage is not great. Nevertheless, it
is hard to get lost on the island because there are so many bike paths and
low traffic roads that you can always find your way. See Maps and Guidebooks
There are many lodging
opportunities. Rügen is a major tourist destination. In addition to frequent
campgrounds (for those of you who have not yet discovered the weight difference
between a wallet of cash and a tent with a sleeping bag), there are numerous
hotels of different qualities (stars?). Additionally, there are many
Zimmer and Ferienwohnunen (FeWo), which is plural
for Ferienwohnung or vacation apartment. As a choice, we like
Zimmer (advertised as Zimmer Frei) but there are also
Gasthäuser (Guest Houses), Pensionen (pensions or bed
and breakfasts), Jugendherbergen (Youth Hostels), and hotels. For
a complete discussion of the different types of lodgings and tips on reservations,
see my Overnight Accommodations
We always say that the stops we like
may not be your favorites so take these recommendations with that in mind.
We did not see the whole island but I can heartily recommend the following:
The Stubnitz chalk cliffs (north of Sassnitz), Kap Arkona, Hiddensee Island.
Additionally, I have it on good authority that the resort area both north
and south of Ostseebad Binz is beautiful. I also suspect - with no real
proof - that the peninsula Mönchgut in the southeast corner of the Rügen
On the island in bookstores
and tourists shops, there are copies of the Fahrradkarte Rügen &
Hiddensee, scale 1:75,000. I found it the best resource, even better
than bikeline’s Ostseeküsten Radweg Teil 2: Von Lübeck nach Ahlbeck
/ Usedom, (Baltic Coast Bike path, Part 2: from Lübeck to Ahlbeck on
Usedom Island)1/75,000 because you get the whole island, not just the part
that covers the Ostsee bike path.
Expect wind. Did I mention
it is windy on Rügen? We were lucky to have great weather but we still encountered
a lot of wind. Tailwinds are great but bicycling into a headwind is like
riding uphill; the stronger the wind, the steeper the hill. One friend calls
a headwind, a poor man's hill.
thing to expect is sandy trails.
rode quite a few kilometers on the northern part of the island and about
50% of the time we were on pavement (either low traffic roads or designated
bike paths), 25% of the time on well packed gravel or good dirt paths, and
25% of the time on single track paths with some soft sand. The sand, if
it has been dry, will grind to a stop even wide tire bicycles. The island
of Rügen is just a large pile of sand and gravel leftover from receding
glaciers at least 100,000 years ago. There are some hills in the center
part and on the southern part of the island but the northern end is mostly
flat – except for the chalk cliffs of course.
Though we bypassed Rügen
the first time we rode through Stralsund, I recommend it highly. The chalk
cliffs, like the White Cliffs of Dover in England, are impressive. Imbedded
in the chalk are pieces of flint. The flint is in definite layers that seem
to be 10 to 20 feet apart. Vacationing Germans and locals enjoy collecting
flint stones with natural holes in them. They string several of these together
with wire or cord as a decoration for their homes and businesses.
The island is strewn with flint. As you can imagine, in the gravel roads
and on bike paths, flint breaks up a bit, leaving razor sharp shards. Riding
over all those shards, I expected to have flat tires but we did not have
any. One theory as to why the flint is in strata is that during the Cretaceous
period, the animals and sea critters that died left their bones in huge
piles on the floor of a shallow sea. This became unconsolidated chalk. Then
a layer of rock that became flint was deposited on top of the chalk. Over
millions of years, these piles of chalk were lifted to slightly different
heights from volcanic up-thrust pressure. This carried the flint stone to
those slightly different heights.
During the ice age, glaciers flattened, compressed, and spread out the
whole thing into the layers we see today. Think of a stack of books that
has fallen over but each book is still resting on its neighbor, then the
stack was put under enormous pressure from ice over 1,000 feet thick so
that the upper edges are now level but stratified at an angle.
The island of Rügen has numerous archeological digs and active archeological
investigations. The island has been populated by humans for over 5,000 years.
The Slavs pushed out the early settlers around 1,400 years ago. The Slavs
belonged to a tribe called the Ranen. After defeat by the Danes in 1168,
it was resettled by Germanic tribes including the Danish.
Arkona is the site of a Slavic fortification that was attacked by those
Danes. At Kap Arkona we hiked the beach from the small fishing village of
Vitt around the northeast corner of the cliffs to the next staircase up.
It is a distance of about 3 kilometers. The beach is mostly flint with a
few fieldstones. For someone who is a member of the Over Fifty with Bad
Knees Club, it is a tough 3 kilometers. There is no path and the rocks are
hard on your knees and feet. But the view is worth it. There is little tide
difference in the area and part of the hike is close to some erosion protection
stonework over which you are not suppose to walk. However, the option of
walking on slippery, mossy, wet rocks in the sea is dangerous so we violated
the rules and walked on the stonework for 200 feet. Sue me but we did.
At the Stubnitz chalk cliffs (north of Sassnitz on the peninsula of Jasmund)
we hiked along the top of these chalk cliffs too. These cliffs are even
more impressive than those at Kap Arkona. It is an 8 kilometer hike from
Sassnitz to Königsstuhl; from there you can catch a bus back to Sassnitz.
The hike is up and down some 30 to 50 feet but there are stairs for the
Rügen as on the mainland of northern Europe you will find many Dolmens (tumuli
or grave mounds) or in German “Hügelgräber” or “Grossteingräber."
These are graves of people from the early Stone Age and are marked with
large fieldstones. One finds them frequently on high points of land. On
maps they are frequently indicated as an archeological site. I don’t know
how many of these there are in the state of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern but there
are over 900 of these graves in northern Schleweg-Holstein alone. Interestingly,
the stones used to mark these graves weigh thousands of pounds. How were
they moved from their original location to the grave site by Stone Age people
who had no John Deere backhoes? Or, did they? If I were an undertaker back
then, I would haul the body to a place where the stones already were – but
that is just me.
Hiddensee is an island on the west side of the island of Rügen. There
are no cars on the island (with a few exceptions, as always) so we either
take bikes, or rent them there, or walk. Those are your choices. Even the
locals have to use pull carts when the move heavy things (even groceries)
from one place to another. Hiddensee has its own history and is certainly
a place to experience.
Beaches on Rügen and Hiddensee are great but the water can be chilly
in the spring. Bathing suits are optional. That is probably a good thing
for hot and sweaty cyclists; I would not know for sure. There does not seem
to be any areas set aside for nude bathing like other beaches we have seen
in Germany. Much of northern Europe has a completely different attitude
about swim suits than we prudes in the USA have. They can take'm or
leave'm and that is a good thing too.
Typical of buildings in the north of Germany, churches are made mostly
of brick but here they mix in some field stones right into the walls. The
style is early Gothic and the alters are detailed and beautifully carved
and painted. Most are open daily, worth a stop if you pass one.